How to Install Slatted Composite Cladding

Slatted composite cladding is a popular choice for external residential walls, giving a clean, modern finish with low upkeep.

If you’re unsure how to carry this out in a reliable, repeatable way to get the same great installation time and again, then you won’t be the first, and certainly not the last.

This guide shows how to install slatted composite cladding step by step, with the practical checks and setup that make the job go smoothly.

We’ll walk you through how to do this yourself; however, if the wall is uneven, damp, cracked, or you are working at height, you may want to stop at any point and consider bringing in a competent installer for a tidy and weather-ready install.

Preparing the External Wall Surface

Before any boards go up, the wall needs a quick but careful check. Skipping this stage often leads to movement, water marks, or panels sitting out of line later on.

Check the wall condition first:

• Surface is sound, with no loose render, flaking paint, or crumbling masonry
• Wall face is flat, with no obvious bows or steps
• No signs of trapped moisture, staining, or active leaks
• Substrate can take fixings without cracking or pulling away

Any damp issues should be dealt with before cladding starts. Composite boards cope well with weather, yet moisture behind them still needs a clear escape route.

If the wall has dips or high spots, pack or repair these so battens sit straight.

A clean, stable base makes every later stage easier, from batten fixing through to keeping the finished cladding lines sharp.

Measuring and Planning the Cladding Layout

Accurate measuring sets the tone for the full install. Start by marking out the wall width and height, then work out how the slats will land at edges, corners, and openings. Aim for even spacing so cut boards do not end up squeezed into one side.

Decide early on a vertical or horizontal layout. Vertical boards often help walls look taller. Horizontal runs can stretch the look across wider elevations. Whichever route you take, keep board joints aligned and consistent across the full face.

Dry-laying a few boards at ground level gives a clear picture of spacing and helps avoid awkward cuts later.

Installing the Supporting Battens

Battens form the backbone of the installation. If they are straight, secure, and spaced correctly, the cladding boards will sit flat and drain as they should.

Use treated timber or a suitable composite batten that can cope with outdoor conditions. Fix battens back to the wall through solid points, using plugs and screws that suit the substrate. Check each run with a level before moving on to the next.

Batten spacing depends on the cladding direction and exposure. Keep gaps consistent so boards are supported evenly across the wall.

Leave a small gap at the base of each batten so water can drain freely. This space helps keep the rear of the system dry and reduces the chance of long-term issues behind the boards.

Ensuring Correct Ventilation and Drainage

Ventilation sits behind every long-lasting cladding install. Composite boards shed rain well, yet moisture still builds up behind them if airflow is blocked. A clear cavity allows damp air to escape and helps the wall dry out after wet weather.

Keep a continuous air gap behind the battens, from base to top. At ground level, leave space between the bottom of the cladding and paving or soil so water cannot pool. The same gap should remain open at the top edge to let air move freely.

Avoid sealing the base or top with silicone or tight trims. Water needs a clear path out. Good airflow and drainage reduce staining, movement, and hidden decay behind the boards.

Fixing the Starter Profile

The starter profile sets the line for the full installation. If this piece is out, every board above will follow it. Taking time here saves adjustment later.

Fix the starter profile level along the base of the wall, sitting just above the ventilation gap. Check it with a spirit level across the full run before any boards go on.

Fit the starter profile in this order:

• Mark a straight datum line across the wall
• Fix through the profile into the battens, not the wall behind
• Keep fixings evenly spaced and snug, not overtight
• Recheck level once secured

This profile supports the first board and controls drainage at the base. A straight, secure start keeps the cladding aligned and helps water shed cleanly away from the wall.

Installing the Slatted Composite Cladding Boards

With the starter profile fixed, boards can go on from the base upwards. Sit the first board into the starter and check it runs straight across the wall before adding fixings. Each board sets the line for the next, so take a moment to check alignment as you go.

Fix boards back through the designated fixing points into the battens. Use stainless or coated fixings suited to outdoor use. Pull boards tight enough to sit flat, yet leave room for natural movement. Composite materials expand and contract with temperature changes, so small gaps matter.

Leave expansion gaps at board ends and where boards meet trims or returns. Follow the product guidance for gap size, and keep spacing consistent across the wall. Work methodically, checking the level every few boards. A steady sequence reduces visible steps and keeps the finished face clean and even.

If you are selecting boards for the job, view the full range of slatted cladding to match layout, finish, and fixing approach.

Cutting and Finishing Around Openings

Openings need a bit more care so the cladding looks neat and stays weather-ready. Measure each cut point from fixed references, not from the previous board, as small errors add up fast around windows and doors.

Cut boards cleanly using a fine-tooth blade suited to composite material. Dry-fit each piece before fixing so joints sit tight without forcing them into place. Around window and door reveals, leave a small clearance gap for movement and trim coverage. The same approach applies around pipes, lights, and vents. Keep cuts tidy and avoid overcut corners, as these stand out once trims are fitted.

Good planning here saves time and keeps the finished face sharp, with no awkward gaps or stressed boards.

Installing Corner and Edge Trims

Corner and edge trims give the cladding a clean finish and protect exposed board ends from knocks and weather. Fit these once the boards reach the edge, rather than trying to force trims in afterwards.

Fix trims back to the battens, keeping them straight and true from top to bottom. Check alignment before tightening fixings, as even slight twists show up once the full height is finished. Leave a small movement gap where boards meet the trim so expansion does not cause pressure or bowing.

Common mistakes include fixing trims too tightly or using them to hide uneven cuts. Trims should finish the detail, not correct poor alignment. When boards are cut cleanly and spacing is even, trims sit neatly and do their job without drawing attention.

Final Checks and Cleaning After Installation

Once all boards and trims are in place, step back and check the full elevation. This is the point to catch small issues before the job is signed off.

Run through these final checks:

• Boards sit straight with even spacing from base to top
• Fixings are secure and flush, with none missed or overdriven
• Expansion gaps are present at ends, trims, and openings
• Base and top ventilation gaps remain clear

Clean the surface with a soft brush or cloth to remove dust and handling marks. Avoid harsh cleaners or pressure washers.

If you’re really struggling or need any advice or confirmation before or after fitting, then you can always contact us at Artificial Living for direct support and guidance on products and more.